Traveling from the kingdom of Persia (modern-day Iran), traversing through the Baluchistan province (in Pakistan), Zar (the golden girl) finds her way to India. A quintessential Mughal princess in this beautiful jhabla (kaftan style gown) adorned with zardozi (gold thread embroidery) that seems like a royal tapestry sewn into a garment.

Decoding ZAR

Costume: Haris Shakeel Couture

Jewelry: RK Jewellers

Stylist: Saima Khan @Saimeotics

1) Structure

The dress follows the Baluchi pattern (worn by women in Baluchistan and Afghanistan) with shocking pink and green panels made from silk patched into a loose gown made from the beige muslin cloth.

2) Embroidery

Zardozi embroidery dominates the craftsmanship with accentuations of Gota Patti and Parsi Gara. Zardozi refers to gold ‘Zar’ and thread ‘Dozi’, meaning an embroidery by gold thread. This embroidery originated in Persia (now Iran) and was brought to the Indian subcontinent by the Mughal Empire. Specialized craftsmen called Zardoz used Salma (gold thread), Sitara (beaten gold sequins), and precious stones like emerald, turquoise, ruby, and pearl to embellish aristocratic apparel, tapestries, and draperies.

This garment exudes signature Mughal craftsmanship and incorporates the indispensable paisley pattern set in a natural landscape. The embroidery themes on an enchanted garden of paisley, flowers, butterflies, deer, and birds set into a galaxy of emeralds, rubies, pearls, and crescents.

Sprinkles of Gota Patti flowers assert the Rajputana influence on Mughal craftsmanship. The craft of Gota Patti comes from Rajasthan and constitutes patching golden ribbons into the cloth in the shape of a Patti (leaf) pattern.

The silk embroidered pink flowers, birds, and green crescents add color to the golden zardozi. This style of silk embroidery roots back in China and was introduced in Persia via the silk route trade. Later on, Persians evolved the embroidery technique into a new style called Parsi Gara.

3) Jewelry

The jewelry set is an ancient South India style Manga Malai or Mango Mala comprised of 22ct gold mangoes with intricate filigree details woven into a string. South Indians believe that mango symbolizes love and wear this design on auspicious occasions like weddings. Gold Jhumki (bell-shaped earrings) with drooping mangoes complete this traditional look that traces back into the Silk Route and brings together multicultural influences.